1) KJ: Hello, I have a question that I cant find an answer for anywhere, I am constructing a recording studio and was wondering if the decoupled wall I will be building between the control room and the live room should have resilient channels on both sides or will this increase wall resonance as it will makes the wall more springy (note: the mass on either wall face will have different density so to avoid resonant frequencies that might be sympathetic to both sides). Also should the insulation be touching off each other from both decoupled walls in the air cavity or does this compromise the whole idea? ... Thank you for your time.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi KJ,
Decoupling one side is enough. The 2nd side will not add much.
Fiberglass insulation can touch the walls and will not create any coupling (contrary to the myth).
2) Mike K: Hi - I recently built a 50' x 75' pre fabricated steel building, primarily for a garage, but I was also looking to use it for some small groups of friends for some loud nights listening to some tunes, but do not want to disturb the neighbors. The building is set on 4' high 10' thick poured concrete stem walls. I am in the process of selecting my insulation and thermal barrier (most likely drywall), and wanted to see about the best way to go about minimizing sound transfer to the outside. The nearest neighbor is about 200' away. Can you guys help with design and material?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Mike, If you have wall and ceiling studs there and that distance you can probably go with insulation in the walls and ceiling and double drywall with Green Glue damping Compound. You can see more details here https://www.tmsoundproofing.com/How-to-Soundproof.html
3) John B: Which is the most effective sound barrier - 1) Mass Loaded Vinyl or 2) two layers of drywall with green glue in-between? If I use both will the sound reduction double, so to speak? I read all sorts of info on your web site for using green glue, but could not find anything on when to use MLV Thanks for your help
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi John, Double drywall and Green Glue is more effective. many customers use both, MLV, Drywall, GG, Drywall. It will rarely if ever double the soundproofing. It will add some 3-4 STC points.
4) Suzie K: We have built a new house and the wall between the master bedroom and the great room where our TV is has no insulation. It sounds like the TV is in the master. You can actually hear words.
I wanted to know if applying mass loaded vinyl on top of the existing sheetrock (in bedroom) then covering that with sheetrock would provide a high level of soundproofing?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Suzie, It would help. 'High level' depends on your expectations. If you will be covering with another layer of drywall which will require you to spackle tape and paint then you may want to do it right the first time. By removing the existing drywall and installing insulation in the wall and then you can do either. MLV, Drywall, Green Glue, Drywall. Even better results by using Resilient Sound Clips, Drywall, Green Glue, Drywall.
5) Jay W: I am considering building dual stud walls for a bedroom and bathroom. I want a plywood layer (1/2 - 3/4) in the walls so I can use screws to attach shelves and wall hangings. I already have unfinished 2x4 or 2x6 walls around the perimeter of each room. I was going to use 2x4 framing next to existing framing, with ceiling and floor plates 1 inch from existing plates. This would give me wall cavities of 8 and 9 3/4 inches.
If I used plywood and two layers of 5/8 drywall, would I be better to use:
Stud-Ply-Dry-Dry
or
Stud-Dry-Ply-Dry
I was planning on using Green Glue between at least the outer two layers. I could also use GG between each Ply/Dry layer. Do you think it would be cost effective?
I planned to use 3.5' insulation on each side leaving a 1' airspace between the 3.5-3.5 walls and 3' between the 3.5-5.5 walls. Is it ok to leave these air spaces or should I fill them with additional insulation?
I know that I could improve my STC by using metal studs and may do so.
Since I will have dual studs, I don't think I will need isolation clips/hat channel. Is that correct thinking? I know I could decrease my wall thickness using hat channel. I could get an equivalent decrease of the total wall width amount by building the second set of studs sideways (1.5 vs 3.5'). Wouldn't this double stud wall configuration still perform similarly or better than a single stud wall with isolation clips?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Jay,
Stud-Ply-Dry-GG-Dry
Using the GG between the first 2 layers as well will give you about 4 STC points (vs 9 points when using it the 1st time).
You can use 5' fiberglass.
If the 2 walls are fully decoupled you do not need the clips and channels. Sideways would decouple just as well.
6) kim : We are looking to sound proof a gymnasium block wall next to classroom walls in a school - new construction. What method do you recommend with which products? Thank you!
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Kim, Can you add to the block wall. I.e. resilient sound clips,channel double drywall and Green Glue. Otherwise you can cover your wall with Mass Loaded Vinyl and cover the vinyl with acoustic panels.
7) Joyce A: Why can we hear people walking and chairs moved and other noises through this soundproofing system? We were told there would be 'no noise issue' when we moved into this 3 story building.
Ceiling to neighbors floor above.
1 Two layers of sheet rock attached to sound channels.
2 Sound channels attached to floor trusses (drywall not screwed directly to floor truss)
3 22inch deep floor trusses filled with blown in insulution
4 3/4inch OSB floor sheathing
5 1 1/4' thick gypcrete topping
6 at kitchen, bath and entry 1/4 ' sound mat and 1' gypcrete is added
7 floor covering (carpet and pad, vinyl, etc)
8 finish flooring
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Joyce. There can be many reasons and without seeing the actual construction we are not in the position to say which one it can be. Among them is: 1) drywall screws penetrating the channels and attaching to the joists. This is very common when resilient sound clips are not used in conjunction with channels. 2)AC and/or pipes running through walls between floors. 3)Soffits in ceilings. These are common, there are other factors as well.
8) Kim: Hi,
I have an existing old slat floor that I'm going to put 5/8' OSB over and I'm thinking to do the rubber underlayment between to float the OSB. I think I need adhesive so that the OSB doesn't warp. What do you recommend?
Thanks,
Kim
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Kim, There are many flooring adhesives out there that can be used for rubber underlayments. Polyurethane adhesives (liquid nails) are very popular.
9) Noreen P: My apartment on a second floor has bamboo flooring and tile in the kitchen bathrooms and entrance. The women downstairs is complaining to the association etc. Can I have the floor taken up and put something in between to block the noise. Will it be expensive to take up the bamboo and then put it back down with more insulation or should I just go over it with carpet? I am extremely upset and angry.
10) Ellen T: I live about 50 feet from a Tiki Bar that was just installed a few months ago. It has outside music now and the bass sound coming in my window 5 nights a week is driving me crazy. I have 5 inches of foam and cardboard boxes piled in my window, but still hear it. Please help !!!!!!!!
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Ellen. Sorry to hear that. Our soundproof window panel barrier is a better option than foam and cardboard boxes however keep in mind that the sound is coming through your walls/floors and ceiling as well so you may have to tackle all of these together.
11) Zord: What methods are best in soundproofing an existing HT in an one level home? Would removing drywall and reinstalling it with resilient sound clips reach way better results? Although there's the laundry and an office between the HT and the closest bedroom I would like to consider extra soundproofing. In addition, what would help reducing transmission of subwoofer originated vibrations and sounds? I would like adding sound treatment on top of the soundproofing layers. What would be best for that?
Thank you.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Yes, clips and channels will give a lot better results. Acoustical panels will help reduce the subwoofer vibrations etc. We have a full line of acoustical panels here.
12) Lavs: We are planning a custom manufactured house, 4 single wide trailers arranged in a square with a 32' center courtyard. Lots of glass, very open. Moving from a strawbale house on our property (to become a gym), great sound/thermal insulation. I want to spec the most thermal & sound insulating walls I can/the factory will do. Would I get better results with 2x4 16' oc exterior walls with a layer of closed cell foam/other? board then plywood, then siding on the outside, and two layers of Sheetrock with green glue between on the inside. Or using 2x6 walls without the foam board on outside? I doubt they would do spray foam. Insights? Things I could try to get them to do?
Floor - they said they would do 3/4' T&G sub floor on 2x8 16' oc joists,... what could I request to improve sound control? Do I 'need' to?
Ceiling - double Sheetrock with green glue?
Spec-ing all interior walls insulated. Other thoughts?
We live on 10 acres, but our corner is a truck route corner,... so that is the sound we want to control. Jake braking and acceleration.
Thanks! Happy Holidays!
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
For sound control purposes we do not recommend spray foam.Double layer of drywall and GG on the inside walls AND ceiling is a very good idea. See here on best ideas on how to soundproof floors.
I always like insulating all interior walls as it helps and allows you the option to add more soundproofing later on.
13) Ed T: If you have two elements side by side, is there an easy way to evaluate the combined STC performance? For instance, if an opening has a glass door (60% of opening) has 17 dB reduction and a fixed sidelite (40% of opening) has 30 dB reduction. How can you figure out the combined net performance?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: It is very difficult if not impossible to get correct measurements when testing side by side as there are flanking sounds etc. Each item would have to be independently tested in a lab environment.
14) Monica B: I am creating a sound proof basement room for my drummer son. I have installed MLV on ceiling and walls. Do you recommend the I use green tape on studs then two layers of drywall with green glue in between and or should I use clips/resilient channel and then drywall?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Monica. Clips and channels are way way better than the tape and if you have the choice than use them.
15) Thomas M: We are expanding a dance studio in a plaza and will be sharing a wall with a pharmacy. They are concerned about the music. The wall is 18'x31' and is metal 2x4 studs with fiberglass insulation and 5/8 drywall on both sides. It is exposed during renovation and will have a suspended ceiling at 10' with 8' mirrors covering the wall. The music is somewhat loud. Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks Tom.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Tom. The first important step is to make sure that they build the drywall wall all the way up to the ceiling the full 18 feet and that it is properly sealed at the top and bottom. Best way to construct the wall is to use resilient sound clips and hat channels on the studs first and ten double drywall with Green Glue Damping Compound on the channels. Otherwise 3 layers of drywall and 2 layers of Green Glue in between. Foe more help you can give us a call 845-388-1200.
16) Vikram K: Hello,
We have a Huge Classroom of about 40 feets * 20 feets. Now we want to divide it in two smaller rooms each of 20 feet * 20 feet for making it into 2 classrooms. What will be the best suitable material for making this partition. We were thinking of using two layers of drywall with a Twiga Insul. (http://www.twigafiber.com/twigainsul.php).
Thanks a lot for the information.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
You have to insure that the partition goes fully up to the roof line and is sealed there with a proper acoustical caulk with no nets and/or pipes going from one room to the next. You can then use standard insulation in the walls and double drywall with Green Glue damping compound in between the 2 layers on both sides of the wall. Better would be if one side was decoupled using resilient sound clips and hat channel. One school we worked with actually removed one wall to redo it this way as the results were not as good as the other rooms they had already treated with the decoupling method.
17) Christine H: Hi- I am looking for some advice. I live in an 1850's brownstone bldg. My contractor is advising me to insulate my floors with cellulose and then layer with subfloor and a finished floor on top. I have limited height issues. I also have a toddler and want to reduce the sound of jumping on the neighbors heads. I think I should use some kind of sound mat but I understand it only works if it is sandwiched bet 2 subfloors, which would bring me over in terms of floor thickness. Do you have any advice for me? I thought about green glue joist tape, but they referred me to you. Thanks!
18) Tyler A: Is there an advantage of adding a third layer of drywall? Does it make sense to pay extra for expensive 'soundproof' dry wall or just use normal?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Every layer adds additional soundproofing however it diminishes. I.e. the 2nd layer will add more than the 3rd, the 3rd more than the 4th. If you are using the Green Glue Damping Compound than you can use normal/standard drywall.
19) Inga: My question is about calculating sound insulation level in the room. actually how it works? you mentioned that if the STC is between 50-60 you would bearly hear loud sounds. how should we reach 50-60? does it mean that only walls should reach such level or doors, windows, floor and ceiling insulation rates are sum together (e.x. wall 32 + door 27+ carpet flooring 25) and thus reaching 50-60?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Inga. No it is not the sum. It is each individual partition tested on it's own. So if you have a wall that you are testing how much sound passes through it it can have in example of 50 STC however if you test that same wall with a plain window built into it than that wall when tested will have a much lower STC as the window will allow more sound to pass through.
20) Lew D: Hi,
I need some advice re soundproofing.
We have a 2800 sq ft area used as a conference room and banquet hall which is above another large open area. The level of impact noise into the area below is unacceptable. The floor appears to be 2 inch concrete (cast onto some type of metal support surface) covered with ceramic tile.
I am considering covering the ceramic tile with a floating floor consisting of a layer of soundboard and two layers of 5/8? OSB and green glue, and using acoustic caulk around the edges.
I am not sure of the best configuration for the sound board and the OSB. My first thought was to sandwich the soundboard between the OSB and use green glue on each side of the soundboard.
Will this approach give any relief from the impact noise? Should the ceramic tile be removed?
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Lew
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Your first thought is a very good one. The other option is to use a rubber underlayment on top of the ceramic til and 2 layers of OSB with Green Glue in the middle on top of the underlayment.
21) Chris C: Greetings, Currently my cart has over $600 of stuff in it. Before I spend this money, I'd like your input on my plan. My father lives in our basement, directly below our entertainment area. His TV is quite audible (though muffled) from the floor above. To sound-proof his ceiling, my idea is to remove the current drywall, use hat channels to hold 1 lb MLV to the ceiling joists, and hang 1/2' QR accoustical sheetrock from the hat channels. Is this a good plan to eliminate the sound escaping from his room? Should the MLV be against the QR or the ceiling joists? I am eager for your reply so I can order these items soon. Thank you, -Chris C
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Chris. Make sure there is insulation in the ceiling and that you are using resilient sound clips for the hat channel. After that you are good with your plan. MLV can be installed either on the joists or onto the channel. You can also consider doing 2 layers of standard drywall onto the channel (only) with the Green Glue in between them.
22) Chris: Thank you for the quick response. I like your company more and more.
I've done more research, and now I'd like to know if it would gain much sound deadening to use the MLV as opposed to two layers of 5/8' sheetrock with greenglue between them? I will be using the hat channels and sound clips, for sure.
Really I'm trying to determine if the MLV is worth the time and hassle. Mostly the sound we hear is muffled TV voices or the radio talk (NPR), so not much in the way of lower frequencies.
Eager to order this stuff,
-Chris C.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Thank you.
Green glue with 2 layers of drywall is the better way to go. As you will be adding mass with the double layer plus achieving damping with the green glue.
23) Andrew B: Hello. We're having a custom RV designed and would like to soundproof the bedrooms to the outside world. We have exactly 9 inches to work with - and I'd like to know how to make the absolute most of every inch to block as much sound as possible. Cost is not an object. Inch by inch of thickness - is it more effective to use soundproof drywall layers, or something like very heavily packed cellulose? Or does this call for several different methods to cover a wide range of frequencies? Thank you for your assistance.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Several methods. 3-1/2' of framing with insulation another 1-5/8 for resilient sound clips and hat channels and another inch for double layer of drywall with Green Glue sandwiched in between. Seal with acoustical caulk. On all walls and ceilings and you will have great soundproofing.
24) Jenna N: I have a fitness center located in commercial building next to a chiropractor. The current wall is 61ft/15ft with 4 inches of insulation standard pink batting.
I was thinking the solution is putting a mat under all the weights and to inject foam in the 4' wall then add additional layer of hard foam closing up with an 2 layer of sheetrock 1/2' what would you recommend?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Don't inject any more foam to the existing insulation (you will be wasting your money. Adding a 2nd layer layer of drywall is a very good idea, sandwich the Green Glue Damping Compound Tubes between the 2 layers to really enhance the soundproofing performance. If you have a drop ceiling with an air space above the wall than you must soundproofing the ceiling too. I suggest you use the ceiling tile barriers.
25) Lisa C: We have an office building with a dropped ceiling, we use standard Radar USG, 2x4 tile. We have tried adding a layer of drywall to the ceiling tiles but it does not help that much. Would it be better to double up on the ceiling tiles instead. They seem to have a higher NRC rating.
26) Alfonse: Do I definitely need insulation? Everyone treats it as a first step, but the consensus seems to be that it doesn't actually do a lot.
This is for ceilings and walls in a wood-frame attached townhouse with 2 apartments. I'm thinking of starting with insulation (there is none currently) but I wonder if I should skip that step and go right to the Green Glue and extra drywall, since that seems to be the most effective low-cost route.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: You should definitely start with that.
27) Paul D: We are designing a movable partition wall for a dance studio that would transform one 40' x 40' x 10' tall room into to two 20' x 40' rooms. We are considering constructing the panels out of drywall with green glue. Presuming that we do a good job of sealing the edges, what STC can we expect with the following constructions: 1/2'DW/GG/1/2'DW, 5/8'DW/GG/5/8'DW, 1/2'DW/GG/1/2'DW/GG/1/2'DW We want to minimize panel thickness to simplify the mechanism for moving the panels so hollow core stud walls won't work for us.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: There is no lab testing that we can reference that has tested Green Glue without it being on a stud wall. The 3rd configuration would work best and should give you an STC in the high 30's range.
28) Tony M: Hello, hoping you can help with a soundproof question. I have a double storey house, and will be renting the lower level. The floor on top level is pine boards on joists, no subfloor. There is already a drywalled ceiling in the lower level, with old and thin insulation above it in-between the joists. Is it best to keep this ceiling and soundproof below it with the methods you offer (sound clips, resilient hats, drywall, green glue, drywall), or should I tear down the ceiling, properly apply insulation in the joists, then do the rest of the process? Thanks!
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Best to tear down the ceiling. This will allow you to re insulate and properly decouple. Decoupling on an existing layer is not recommended if there is the possibility of decoupling from the joists themselves.
29) noah s: Hi, I am building a sound isolating wall between two living spaces in a duplex. I'm wondering about what would be a preferable construction. I'm going to use two layers of 5/8inch drywall with green glue on one side of a 2x4 insulated wall and I was wondering if I'd get better results with either hat channel with clips or a staggered stud design with the drywall attached to that. Let me know what you think. Thanks.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: You would definitely be enhancing your soundproofing significantly by doing that. As you will be adding the additional component of decoupling as well. Clips and channels is the better of the 2, however if you plan on hanging heavier items from the wall than go with the staggered studs.
30) Margie: I'm renovating my 1200 sq ft office condo by expanding into the adjacent condo. Some walls will be partially replaced with soundproof glass. Ceilings are 9 feet. What floor covering should I use to minimize noise? I'm interested in a vinyl wood look alike. Should I go with carpet instead?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Carpet is definitely a lot better at absorbing sound and footsteps. The plusher the better.
31) Jason M: Soundproofing a basement located home theater / music rehearsal room. Began as 18x18 ft single stud (16”) frame. Added a fully decoupled interior room with 20” studs and 1 inch air gap. Floor beams of interior room are nailed into the slab with no other dampening. Will double 5/8 on exterior wall, r15 pink insulation, and then whisper clips/hat channel with another double 5/8. Green glue throughout. Ceiling is also decoupled both frame and drywall. Swapped aluminum duct work out for flex in returns (with cannot he moved), cut off other supply ducts and removed. Have one supply and one return in new room.
My questions:
1) should I treat the floor other than 2x plywood and carpet?
2) will HVAC above and inside be a problem?
3) what is best way to mount fixtures to interior decoupled wall? Snap toggles or right into hat channel? I know I don’t want to attach anything to interior room studs because it will short circuit it.
4. For outlet panels, lights, etc, just sink then into double 5/8 drywall with some puddy on back?
Thanks!
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Good job! That should be sufficient for the floor. HVAC is always a pain when it comes to sound as it is designed to allow air flow. You can cover the top and sides of the vent with some Mass Loaded Vinyl. If it is a light weight fixture you can go direct into hat channel. Light/electrical boxes are usually mounted to the studs with Putty Pads wrapped around them.
32) Travis T: Hi, I am looking to construct a window plug for a large, 72' by 31' window. I am looking to use a one and 1/8 inch compression barrier with an STC of 34 for the first layer-(facing window- cut slightly LARGER than the exact dimensions of the window well- then use a one inch MDF or OSB (cut slightly SMALLER than the exact dimensions of the window will- as the outward facing material. The compression barrier features a PSA backing. If the MDF has an STC of 30- Using these two panels, does my installed window plug build now have a 64 STC?
Any other suggestions for maximizing STC for this project?
Cheers,
Travis, Montreal
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
Hi Travis. No. The 2nd layer will only give you about 3-4 STC points. You can use 2 layers of half inch MDF or OSB with the Green Glue damping Compound in between to give your plug a boost.
33) Sherwood S: My condo has ceiling fire sprinklers. Does that present an additional problem?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: That is an issue but keep in mind that nearly all soundproofing projects in the 'real' world have issues such as piping, lighting, duct work etc. That being said fire sprinklers are not that bad just be sure to caulk around the edge to ensure a tight seal.
34) Gino: My original plan is to use resilient channel, green glue and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall on the ceiling and all 4 walls.
Do I need to use 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and resilient channel on the 2 walls that are concrete?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: I would have to know more details to properly answer the question.
35) Jim Calho: Hi, Im building a shed in my yard with decoupled room within a room ... for the ceiling of the exterior shell, is it ok to have absorption material (fiberwool) above the mass that im using? i'm going to have a double layer (w/gg) of plywood above the room but bc of how the ceiling joists hit the common rafters (this is in a gable roof attic basically), it would be a lot easier to affix the plywood from the bottom to the joists and put the insulation above it. The walls have the insulation on the inside, and then plywood/siding on the outside obv. Was wondering if it made a difference.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Jim. That would work fine.
36) Gary : One layer of 5/8 drywall or two on the ceiling? Would adding a second layer of drywall to the ceiling be beneficial vs just having the one layer of 5/8'? The ceiling assembly pan is: LVT, underlayment, 1' of lightweight concrete, 2x12 wood joist, r-19 insulation, Risc-1 Clip with 7/8' hat channel and then one layer of 5/8' drywall.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Gary. Additional weight/mass is always beneficial.
37) Michael wil: Hi,
We just purchased a building that is 3 stories and the ceiling height for each level is around 8' 3''. The first two levels will be bars and the third residential. We will be demoing the first level so open to ideas for what the best approach to minimizing the sound travel from the each floor?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Michael. Best would be to give us a call 845-388-1200 to discuss the project. Thank you
38) Mitch Hunter: Hello. Can in install 2x4s over existing drywall, then run resilient channel onto the new studs, followed by drywall? Thank you.
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: That is fine. Put some insulation in the studs as well.
39) Jessie Gemmer: I am an architect working on a residential renovation of a home into two units. The basement will be its own apartment, so I am required to separate them acoustically. However, the first floor hardwood flooring does not have a subfloor between it and the 2x10 joists. Is there anything I can do to reach the required STC level (45/50) without removing the hardwood and adding a subfloor? Thank you!
Trademark Soundproofing Reply:
You can soundproof the ceiling below, Insulation, Mass Loaded Vinyl, Sound Clips, Hat Channel, Drywall, Green Glue, Drywall, Acoustical caulk.
40) Jack : I am building a freestanding music rehearsal/recording building on my property. My initial plan was to do Rockwool Safe n Sound insulation on the outer wall; one-inch air gap; decoupled wall with SafenSound in between the studs, then a layer of 5/8 drywayll and a layer of 1/2' drywall with the seams staggered and the walls and outlets sealed with Green Glue acoustical sealant. However, the the interior wall with the studs ended up attached to the structure. I don't want to tear all that down. So, I am considering insulation, air gap, insulation, whisper clips/channel, then the two layers of dry wall. Will this decouple or will it still create a triple leaf if I have an air gap without decoupling and then the Whisper Clips?
Trademark Soundproofing Reply: The middle interior wall is somewhat problematic. However if the new wall has a large enough space you should be fine.
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