How to Videos

The following are a collection of videos that will help you understand more about how our products work. 

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How Automatic Door Bottoms Work

Soundproofing Doors using Door Gaskets

Soundproofing Electrical Outlets In Walls Using Putty Pads

Soundproofing Floors Using Premium Carpet Underlayment

Soundproofing an office using Ceiling Tile Barriers and Light Covers

Installing and testing our custom Soundproof Window Panels.

Soundproofing an Existing Ceiling using Insulation,Resilient Sound Clips, Hat Channel, Green Glue, Putty Pads and More.

Applying Green Glue To Subfloor on New Framing

Applying Green Glue to an Existing Ceiling

Soundproofing a Floor using Joist Gasket Tape

Applying Green Glue from a Bucket using our Bucket Applicator.

Applying Acoustical Caulk Noiseproofing Sealant

Installing Green Glue Noiseproofing Whisper Clips.

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Customers Questions and Answers

1) Martijn VDV: Hello. Your site is full of wonderful and helpful information. But one piece of info I can't find. My situation is. I have a room in the attic. I want to convert this room to a home theater room. The room consist of the outer wall of the house. An inner wall and the roof. I know I will need to build a new wall for insulation. I also know I will probably need a floating floor. What I do not know is how to achieve this. The door to this room is currently on floor level. So raising the floor inside the room will cause issues with the door. How can I solve this? And on a side note. Do I need to so something with the roof as well? Asking cause this will be difficult to accomplish since the roof is already in a finished state. I hope you can help. Kind regards, Martijn van der Veek Netherlands.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Martijn. Thank You we appreciate the feedback. If you cannot create the floating floor. You can add a 2nd layer of plywood with Green Glue to the existing sub floor, I am assuming that there is insulation in the floor as it is an attic. Same goes for the roof add another layer with Grenn Glue on there.

2) Barry S: I'm interested in 1lb mass loaded vinyl. If I choose the adhesive-backed product, would that avoid the need for nail or staple fasteners? My application would be an initial 5/8" drywall on the studs, the MLV on the drywall, and a 2nd 1/2" drywall over the MLV. Thanks!

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Barry. Yes that help you avoid the need to staple to the wall especially if you will be covering it with an additional layer of drywall.

3) Sarah: Any advice you have about soundproofing an existing wall between two therapy offices would be helpful. There are some electrical sockets, and I'm considering spraying foam behind and around the boxes, and then using those insulating pads under the plate. I wish I could use the putty pads, they look perfect, but the wall already exists. If that doesn't help, I'm thinking of blowing insulation into the wall between each set of studs from a hole at the top. Would really appreciate your professional advice.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Sarah, Please see this article

4) Bernard H: I saw your YouTube presentation on sound proofing a room. In the video there was a quick reference to doing sound damping to what looked like a furnace vent. It looked like you put two strips of something into the vent. What product did you use to do the sound damping and do you sell it? Your video was very informative.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Bernard, That is the 3m Metal Damping Tape and we sell it here.

5) charles m: Hello, I have a garage that is attached to my home. I am a drummer and made a music room out of it. I am having issues with my next door neighbor. When the band has a rehearsal, my neighbor complains that they hear the bass drum and the bass guitar in their home on the 1st and 2nd floor. My thought was to build a drum raiser for the drums and bass guitar amp, but I have also notice that you can hear the bass drum and bass guitar low frequencies thru the wall when standing outside. The construction of the garage/music room is standard wood construction with fiber glass insulation in-between the wall and ceiling joists and I put 2 layers of plaster board. We also have a door on the front side of the room. I know that there is some sound leaking at the door. Can you guide me on how I can at least cut down the low frequencies from bothering my neighbor? Thanks, Chuck Mfrom Philadelphia, PA

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Chuck. You can remove the plasterboard and add resilient sound clips, channel, double drywall and Green Glue to your walls and ceiling. The results will be dramatic. Read details here How to soundproof a wall For the door please see our How to soundproof a door article.

6) Rita: I want to soundproof a basement ceiling to stop flow of noise from basement up to the first floor and vice versa. After watching one of your videos my question is how many inches of height will I lose when I use all the items suggested: clips, two layers of drywall etc. Another issue is there is recessed lighting throughout the space, will the soundproofing work with those lights. I have already added rockwool insulation to joists with no discernible difference. Thanks

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Between 2.5"-3" (depending on clip and thickness of drywall). Recessed lights are an issue. You can cover them with this Soundproof recessed light cover.