TM Soundproofing Soundproofing Consultation

Soundproofing Consultation

 

 

Soundproofing Consultation

 

We are here to help with any question you may have about our products, installation and general questions.

We have also written detailed and extensive articles on how to soundproof new construction and existing structures. If you still need help with designing a soundproofing plan for your project or for your condo etc you can call and request a phone consultation with one of our soundproofing experts.

The fee for a phone consultation is 

$35.00 for 15 Minutes.

You can send in drawings and emails before the consultation to maximise your phone time.

To schedule a consultation please call 845-388-1200 extension 103. Or email rachel@tmsoundproofing.com

We look forward to helping you achieve the best possible results for your sound control project.

Customers Questions and Answers

1) Kathleen: My contractor wants to attach the 2nd stud wall directly to the current studs instead of using the staggering effect. I'm unsure about this. Should he do this and if so, how? Thank you.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Kathleen, You will have much better results if the 2 studs are not attached to each other. This can be done by framing a new wall 1" in front of the existing one or by using specialty sound clips like these http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/TMS-Silent-Clips-A48R.html

2) Jacob S: Hello, I am doing a remodel with a finished basement. The main level has squeaky wood floors; you can hear every step especially with hard soled shoes. I would like to mitigate this problem. At the moment the basement ceilings are open to the joists. One consideration is that I wish to preserve as much height as possible since the ceilings are low at around 7'. What are your recommendations? Thank you.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Jacob. IFiberglass insulation , 2 layers of half inch drywall with Green Glue in between them.

3) Ted: I can hear snoring, the TV, and talking from my downstairs neighbor (condo). He has the same problem with noises coming from us. The contractor suggested installing MLV (1) in his ceiling or (2) under my floor. If we do (1), would it help both of us? Same question for (1). Thank you!!!

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Ted, Yes it would help. If you will be working wit your ceiling you are better off adding a 2nd layer of drywall with the Green Glure damping compound in between (make sure there is insulation in the ceiling as well).

4) Jesse J: Using the whisper clips and hat channels, how do we handle the door frame? The frame sticks out to allow the door jam to come out flush with 2 layers of drywall (with green glue) on top of the hat channels. Then drywall would be touching the door frame, is that ok? can we put the acoustic sealant on the door frame 1st so its between drywall and door frame? basically how do handle around the door, thanks!

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Jesse. You would use what is called an "extension jamb" for the doorway to meet the additional width of the wall. Any decent trimmer can help you with that. Usually there is a slight gap between the drywall and door jamb and yes you should fill that with acoustical caulk. No big deal if touches here or there although you are better off with the small gap.

5) Howard S: What would be best to eliminate road noise, We live in townhouse and our bedroom is about 25 yards from a main street. The room has 2 windows on and Is on the side wall and the main wall needs some soundproofing. What would recommend? My wife has sleeping problems

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Please see this how to soundproof existing walls and ceiling article.

6) Angie: My neighbor floors constantly creek when is walks upstairs condo, he's very heavy, has a child that constantly runs over top of our heads what can we do? Thank you!

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

If he is willing to put down carpet you can use a special sound control underlayment.

7) Jerry: What do you suggest for stopping noise coming through a common wall in a condo?

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Another layer of drywall with Green Glue damping compound. See this article

8) Jerry: Thank you for the response. Your email refers to an article--"see this article". However, there is no link to the article.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Sorry about that. Here it is https://www.tmsoundproofing.com/soundproofing-existing-rooms-walls-ceilings.html

9) Kenn D: building walls between sleeping rooms am I better off designing them with staggered studs and 2X6 plates or build a thinner wall with one inch space between?

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: A thinner wall with 1 inch space in between.

10) Rudy B: building two story apartments. we have trusses and decking already down on second level. We are using channel on sheet rock where needed and foam on walls, and fiberglass between floors. The question is should we use green glue on the decking already down on second level and then put another layer of decking down on it? Would it help?

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Rudy. Yes that would help a lot for both airborne and footfall noise. Your other choice would be to add the Green Glue and another layer of drywall onto the channels below. However the floor is a better first choice as there are less cut outs and it absorbs some foot fall as well.

11) Ken: Hello, I am thinking about using whisper clips to float walls and a ceiling inside a walk-in closet to create a practice booth. Would this be possible and would the floated walls and ceiling be removable if it is a rental apartment? Thank you! Ken

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: That is possible. It is not removable unless you want to remove drywall etc.

12) Ken K: Thank you for the reply. My follow-up question is does the installation compromise the existing drywall in any way? For a rental apartment, upon move-out I would want to remove any construction and would like to know if it would leave any damage. Could you please walk me through what the removal/clean-up process would look like? Thank you again! Ken

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: It would involve removing the screws that hold up the clips.

13) Peter: Hi, Your site has been very helpful. I will look to purchase products shortly. We are blending families and starting a basement renovation to accommodate 3 new bedrooms and a TV / games room. The basement also has a laundry / bathroom and a mechanical room. Some rooms are existing already and I will use GG and layers of drywall along with blown insulation in one wall and batt in another (mechanical room) shared wall. I plan to use 2 layers 5/8" gypsum with GG in the rec room area ceiling screwed to the joists with insulation. For the bedrooms I plan to additionally use sound isolation clips and channels. My questions for you is what type of wall assembly for the wall separating two bedrooms (no door) and the wall separating these two bedrooms from the rec room (two doors). It is new construction so I can do metal, wood, staggered studs, etc. I would prefer to not use clips due to cost and square footage loss. I also ruled out a double stud wall for sq. footage loss. For the wall with the doors, it doesn't seem to make sense to go overboard since the doors won't have the same STC rating anyway - weak point. Also, I cannot find on your site construction techniques for framing walls and ceiling connections. Do you recommend doing the clip/channel ceiling first and screwing the wall top plate into the hat channel through the drywall? I'm thinking I want to avoid attaching the wall top plate to the joists. An article on this would be very helpful. Much thanks, Peter

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Thank you Peter. A staggered wall with Green Glue in between double layers of drywall will be the best option for your situation. You can use a specialty clip to decouple the joists from the ceiling joists, see here https://www.tmsoundproofing.com/Resilmount-A24R-Double-Clip-For-Acoustical-Bridging.html. There are new articles and videos in the pipeline. Thanks for your suggestion!

14) Adam W: Hi Friends, I am building a recording studio in my unfinished basement. 2 of the walls that exist for my project are cinder block (which I plan on building studded walls in front of). The 3rd wall is a studded wall that runs below the "I" beam. I will be building the fourth wall to connect them all together. I have a couple of questions. First, being that 2 of the walls will have cinderblocks behind them (and this is all underground), do I need to treat them as heavily as the other 2 walls? Should they all be treated the same for continuity? Behind the wall that I have yet to build is our central AC and heating unit. The air ducts for this will be running through the top of this wall and along the ceiling in the room I am building. What are your thoughts for insulating around these ducts? Should I build a frame around them and insulate the same as the ceiling and walls? What are your suggestions for running ventilation into the room and out of the room? I know these are a lot of questions! Thanks in advance.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Adam. You do not need to treat your 2 exterior walls as heavily as the other 2. Best would be to keep the ducts in the ceiling ducts. If that is not possible frame from 3 sides and wrap with double layer of drywall and Green Glue.