TM Soundproofing Decoupling Explained

Decoupling Explained

[For a quick and basic understanding of sound proofing please read our soundproofing 101 article first.]

During your research on the topic of soundproofing, you have almost certainly come across the term decoupling. Decoupling means mechanically separating the two sides of a wall to make it harder for sound to pass through the wall. Here is a simple example of decoupling two sheets of drywall.

Here we show a simple sketch of how wood studs couple the conventional wall, and how products like resilient channel or resilient sound clips can decouple it and improve performance.

The stiffness of wood studs couples the two sides of a conventional wall. As a result, sound can easily pass from one side, through the studs, to the other side.

Sound can pass through this type of wall without going through the air and the insulation, so insulation has only a limited effect on the single wood stud wall.

By including a resilient decoupling mount, the sound that tries to pass to the other side via the structure is thwarted, and performance can improve.

Because sound cannot easily pass through the structure, it has to pass through the air cavity, and insulation becomes far, far more effective.

Part 2 – Decoupling and Resonance

When you move two sheets of drywall apart you do improve things, but only at some frequencies.

What happens is that the air in the cavity of the decoupled wall acts like a spring, and like all mass-on-a-spring systems, this results in a resonance. At (and around) this resonance point, the performance of the decoupled wall is actually considerably worse than if no decoupling had been used. Like this:

In theory (and in lab tests and in the field), decoupling only helps well above the low frequency resonance. In this case, with a resonance of 63 Hz, the decoupling only helps above 100 Hz, and hurts performance below this frequency. Let’s take a look at an actual lab test exactly as above.

One of the lines to the left is 4 layers of 1/2” drywall as a solid slab with no air cavity.

The other line is the same drywall, but with 2 layers on each side of a 2x4 wall with resilient channel and insulation.

As predicted above, what we observe is large gains at higher frequencies, but performance losses at lower frequencies.

This is caused by the resonance intrinsic to decoupled walls. To attain both the tremendous high frequency performance of decoupling and good low frequency performance, we will have to address this resonance problem somehow.

Attaining good low frequency performance: Part 1 - Lowering resonance frequency

To attain good low frequency isolation with a decoupled partition, we will have to handle the resonance somehow. The first method that we can use is to cause the wall to resonate at lower frequencies. To do this we have to:

a) Add mass to one or both sides of the wall e.g. another layer of drywall (heavier decoupled walls have lower resonance frequencies).

b) Increase the depth of the air cavity.

c) Add insulation (if no insulation is currently present).

The benefits of lowering resonance are two-fold:

1) The frequency range where the wall performs poorly moves down
to frequencies that the human ear can’t hear as well, which reduces disturbance.

2) The frequency range where the decoupling is effective becomes
wider – your decoupling efforts work on the lower frequencies as well.

Notice how, as the frequency of resonance goes down, performance at frequencies important to theater, music, traffic, aircraft, and the human ear are greatly improved.

It’s a lot better to have a 20 Hz problem than a 40 Hz problem, or to have a 40 Hz problem than an 80 Hz problem!

If  your resonance is high in frequency, your decoupling efforts may make things WORSE, not better. For example, you would be better off for almost any application to use two layers of drywall sandwiched tightly together than you would to use two layers of drywall separated by one inch.

Later in this document we will go over some basic tips for lowering resonance and attaining good all-around performance. Next, we’ll look at our other option for dealing with resonance – damping it with viscoelastic materials.

Attaining good low frequency performance: Part 2 - Viscoelastic damping


We saw above that conventional decoupled systems have considerable performance dips at resonance. It has been demonstrated in lab tests that products like Green Glue, have a substantial positive effect at resonance on conventional, coupled walls. The same benefits are observed to the same extent on decoupled walls such as double stud walls. By an enormous margin, pound for pound the best wall that you can build is a visco-elastically (e.g. Green Glue) damped double stud wall.

Table – choosing the right decoupling system for low frequency performance.

Best decoupling
selections for walls

For conventional (non-damped) drywall

For well damped drywall (such as Green Glue damped board)

Best type of decoupling

Double stud wall

Double stud wall

2nd best

Modern sound clips like Whisper Clip

Staggered studs

3rd best

Staggered studs

Sound clips

4th best

Resilient channel

Wood or metal furring channel (not resilient)

5th best

Wood or metal furring channel (not resilient) perpendicular to the studs at 24” on-center

Resilient channel

Best decoupling selections for floor/ceiling constructions

For conventional (non-damped) drywall

For well damped drywall (such as Green Glue damped board)

Best type of decoupling

Separate ceiling joists (true room within a room)

Separate ceiling joists (true room within a room)

2nd best

Modern sound clips

Sound clips

3rd best

Resilient channel

Resilient channel or non-resilient
wood or metal furring


Tips that are invaluable when planning a decoupled partition:

1. Use as much mass as possible on each side of the wall.
2. Always use double drywall on at least one side of the wall.
3. Use as deep an air space as possible.
4. Use insulation. Fluffy fiberglass insulation is as good as anything.
5. Select modern sound clips such as Whisper Clip over resilient channel (lower resonance point).
6. Select double stud walls over anything (lowest resonance point).
7. Use Green Glue damping compound.
8. Choose thicker, heavier drywall over thinner – i.e., use all 5/8” drywall if possible

Construction diagrams

These should be helpful to anybody wondering what, for example, a double stud wall is.

Conventional wall (coupled)

Staggered stud wall. Shown
is 2x4 studs offset on a
2x6 base plate

Double stud walls. Two
separate rows of studs with
drywall only on the outside

Resilient Channel

Resilient channel (see image to the right) is a thin, flexible metal channel that is screwed to the studs. Drywall is then screwed to the channel, and the flexibility of the channel creates a decoupled wall.

Sound Clip

Sound clips are typically rubber-containing devices that screw into the studs of your wall. A Metal Hat Channel is then inserted into the clips, and drywall is screwed into the Hat Channel. These clips provide decoupling by virtue of the resilient rubber component of the clips that ultimately supports the weight of the drywall. Product featured in image to the right is our popular TMS Silent Clip - A237R.

Alternative sound clip options, like the Whisper Clips featured on our soundproofing site, provide resiliency through their distinct design contributing a higher rating than their rubber counterparts.

Silent Clip with Hat Channel Installed on Wooden Stud and Drywall System




Decoupling is an extremely powerful tool, and can raise the STC extremely efficiently. Ultimately, every truly great sound isolation scheme will utilize some type of decoupling.
However, decoupling is not effective at all frequencies. In fact, decoupling a wall results in reduced low frequency performance around its resonance point, and is only effective at frequencies much higher than resonance. Thus, to lower the frequency where wall performance is weak and maximize the frequency range over which decoupling helps you, you should strive to have resonance as low as possible.
The combination of viscoelastic damping and decoupling is extremely potent – giving the benefits of decoupling without the drawbacks.

Click here to see our Soundproofing Materials.

Customers Questions and Answers

1) Ernest: Hello, I currently live in a townhouse (in Canada), with one shared wall, including one side of our master bedroom. On occasion, we can hear our neighbours talking in the next room (very faint mumbling, but we cannot make out what they are saying). We also hear heavy footsteps on the rare occasion. I had a local contractor come do an assessment. When we drilled a hole, we found fiberglass as insulation between the concrete wall and drwall. We took a look at the attic and found that there was a sheet drywall separating our units. From a building code perspective, I would assume that the concrete wall goes all the way to the roof. The insulation in our roof is also fiberglass. The contractor suggested adding a 5/8 in drywall with Green Glue for the shared wall. He also suggested adding cellulose to the roof. With regards to the thumping and lower frequencies, I would like to know if there is merit to decouple the roof with sound clips? I am also open to any suggestions you may have to make the optimal mitigation strategy. Thanks, Ernest

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi. I don't believe decoupling the ceiling will help with the thumping noise that is coming from the side, which is mostly coming through the floor. If anything I would decouple the wall first.

2) Anne: Hi there, I live in a converted 1930s factory building that has almost no insulation between floors vertically: The floorboards of one apartment (1" spruce board) rest on 12" joists, and then a tin ceiling is nailed directly into the joists. Other than dust, there's nothing in the way of insulation. I am planning to take down the tin and insulate somehow, and wonder whether I should add insulation of some kind and then decoupling clips before ranging the tin. The sounds that come through are TV, conversation, etc., and footsteps when people are thumping around up there, though that seems to be less of a problem. Anything would be better than this (though my neighbors are nice!) but I'd like to do it once, right. I've considered using a layer of green glue on sheetrock strips which I wedge in between the joists up against the spruce boards, and then hanging the tin from resilient channel. Does this seem like a workable plan? Thank you!

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Anne, Definetly add the insulation. I would suggest that you add a layer of drywall to the clips and channels and then install the tin onto that. If you really want to beef it up, add 2 layers of drywall with Green Glue in between to the clips and channels first.

3) david f: Hi guys. I have a question that is driving me mad please could you help!. I am building a soundproof garden studio this summer. I have the wall solution ticked (Room within room - double walls), the ceiling ticked (floating joists on top of the inner wall between outer wall joists), Double skin of inner plaster board with Green glue inbeteen.. However, I am perplexed with the floor!!. My building is going to be built on a floating wooded base which the Outer AND inner walls are to be attached to. So, yes, if the sound hits the walls and ceiling it is fine. It also cannot flank through the ceiling or up the upright edges.. it can however flank into the floor, under the inner wall, and up through the outer wall. Could someone kindly advise a solution?. Thanks so much.. it is driving me mad! :) Many thanks David

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi David. You can build a floating floor using the Rubber Joist Isolaters. Fill with fiberglass between joists. and use 2 layers of subflooring with Green Glue in between. Thank You.

4) Pam: I live in a single level condo. I share a crawl space and attic with the unit I have a common wall with. Our current solution is to remove my current drywall and add new Roxul Insulation -> Hang Mass Loaded Vinyl (1 lb) -> Decoupling clips and rails ->5/8 drywall -> Acoustical caulk at seams -> green glue -> 5/8 drywall. And we are insulating the outlets on both sides. I'm good with this solution, but... we discovered today that I also share a sub-floor with this neighbor. They recently installed new carpet and now I can hear the TV more. In addition, when they had their TV on the shared wall, I could clearly hear it. My question... Will the shared sub-floor cancel out or seriously compromise the effort put into soundproofing the wall. I have hardwood floors nailed onto the sub-floor, no padding, no floating. I am not concerned with structural sounds, I'm very concerned with TV and stereo. Thank you!

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Pam, the wall build is excellent however I see a problem with noise coming over the wall via the attic/crawl space. You would have to add another layer of drywall with Green Glue to your ceiling as well. Sharing sub floors is a common problem and not much you can do about it at this point.

5) Alexandre : Hello, We just bought a 1600 sq feet condo in a beautiful historical building constructed in 1905. Unfortately, it needs serious soundproofing. We can hear every footsteps of the upstairs neighbours: both the impact sound and the very loud squeeky hardwood floor. We can't hear uptairs TV, music or conversation, though. We can't sleep at night and this is affecting our health. What soundproofing solution would you recommend? Regards, Joseph

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi, Joseph, Please see this article

6) Craig: Hello, I am looking to decouple the walls in a home theatre room but would like to know how should I reattach the skirting & architraves to the walls without compromising the sound insulation. I intend to use furing channel and whisper clips. Thanks Craig

Trademark Soundproofing Reply: Hi Craig. Those can be attached through the drywall into the hat channel. Just be sure to attach clips and channel at the heights you will need for the baseboard and mouldings.

7) Lorrie: I have noise from a diesel truck starting up very early in the morning not far from my bedroom. Sometimes the truck is started and let to run for some time. I have one window on that side of my bedroom and a glass sliding door on another wall. I am wondering about a metal rolling shutter with an STC rating of 59for the window and adding insulation to the outside wall around the window. I am also considering taking out the window and increasing the insulation in the wall. Would any of these ideas make sense for soundproofing. I sleep with earplugs and a white noise machine, but I can still hear the truck in the very early hours in the morning and I am becoming sleep deprived.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Lorrie. Yes your ideas make sense. Doors and windows are weak links and removing them and replacing them with a solid wall is much better. You can consider using our removable window soundproof panel and our soundproof door panel. Keep in mind that sound may still be leaking through the walls however you are best of treating the window and wall first (I am also a bit skeptical that the shutter can achieve an STC rating of 59).

8) Marshall M: I have 2 conference rooms that share a common wall. I need to isolate the wall to mitigate sound from each room. The wall is 10ft H x 14ft W, 3 5/8 metal studs, under 1 layer of 5/8'' sheetrock each side. Suggestions for sound proofing system? Would it be more efficient to leave existing wall and frame new decoupled wall next to existing. If so, could i flat stud the new wall to save burning floor space and still achieve a good sound barrier? I need to perform the work from 1 side only, I don't have access to the other side of the existing wall.

Trademark Soundproofing Reply:

Hi Marshall, If you leave the existing wall you will be running into an issue called the triple leaf effect. better to remove the existing drywall, use resilient sound clips and hat channel to decouple and save space. Put 2 layers of drywall onto the channels. If you have a drop ceiling with open space above the wall you would need to treat your ceiling as well.